We began the day thinking we only had to climb a few hundred meters to the very gradual West side of Niwar Pass, after which we would leave Dolpo and have a long downhill to Sangdak, with Jomsom a couple days further along lower-altitude trails. The maps showed a deep canyon on the East side but no apparent obstacle.
We left camp at about 8am and it was indeed easy to climb up the wide glacial valley to Niwar Pass. It was all snow-covered, but the cold snow was as hard and safe as concrete to walk on. By mid-morning we had indeed reached the high point of the valley and we could see the start of the deep canyon. My GPS read about 5200 meters for Niwar Pass, which roughly matched the maps.
Only we didn't stop there. Unbeknownst to us and apparently even our guide Kinna, the yak men had pointed us up and over a steep ridge to our left, which looked anything but easy. Apparently the regular route down the canyon was too treacherous for yaks and they used this alternative route called Thuje Pass. It was not clear whether the regular route was also impassible for humans in this season. Although the yak men convinced Kinna it was impossible, we learned later that a Swiss party had recently come up that way. We will never know if it was better or worse..
We climbed and climbed this steep ridge. It was impressive to watch the whole team of yaks obediently walk up the steep path, but Marcia and I took much longer. When we finally reached the top of Thuje Pass, I was shocked to see that it was almost 2pm, and we had only three hours of sunlight left for a much more difficult descent. My GPS and maps agree on 5600 meters (18,500 feet), the highest Marcia and I had been on this trip and probably ever.It was absolutely gorgeous, to be sure. On the side we had climbed, the peaks of Dhauligiri I and II (8167m and 7751m respectively) were both visible behind a series of peaks that would have been remarkable in their own right anywhere else in the world. The canyon was very deep, and a side valley rose toward Tukuche Peak (6920m), connecting up with an unseen Hidden Valley that runs between Dhauligiri I and the rest of its peaks. To the other side of the pass was a continuation of the canyon and in the distance the valleys and mountains of Mustang and central Nepal. One of these peaks was surely Manaslu, though the Annapurna massif was hidden by nearer mountains.
It would have been great to enjoy this view longer, but we had to get down. The initial descent went straight down a steep snowy slope, which although not dangerous took a lot of energy and concentration.
The right thing under the circumstances would have been to set up an emergency camp in the snow-filled valley below. We would have flat ground and water at least in the form of chopped ice. It would have been cold and unpleasant but easily attainable and safe.
But we could already see our yaks with all our gear moving on to the next ridge and subsequent descent. Of course the yak men didn't want to stop in a snowy valley where there would be no food for their yaks, and they didn't think anything of another long descent.
We reached the first valley a little before 4pm and we had to continue despite the difficult suncups on the 20-centimeter thick snow, which was not quite hard enough to support my weight. I was already quite tired and I knew Marcia must be approaching exhaustion.
The trail led mostly along contours to a crossing of another ridge that we'd been able to see from the pass. When we finally reached the prayer flags that marked that crossing, it was 5pm and sunlight remained only on the highest peaks. The valley below us was beautiful but as deep as the Grand Canyon with no water or camp in sight.We had to get off the highest ridge before it got dark. The way down was not dangerous but it was steep and occasionally icy enough to be difficult for Marcia, even if she weren't exhausted. She at least had a down jacket - I had stupidly sent mine ahead in my pack on the belief that we would be down lower long before this. I led the way and found the indistinct switchbacks in the failing light while Kinna helped Marcia step by step. Somehow we managed to get down off the rocks just as we lost the last twilight. The moon was almost full, so it was no problem to follow a normal trail.
My plan was to get us down to a flat place where we could spend the night in a tent. Our people would need to bring a tent, sleeping bags, and a bit of food and water, but they could do that with their flashlights and strong climbing skills. At the bottom of the first descent we did in fact find a rock enclosure that could have served in a pinch, but it was uneven and not really large enough for our tent.
Just as we were voting to continue, we saw the light of our best kitchen man Mahendra coming up from below. He brought us juice, yak cheese, and news that they had established a camp at a point below that required no more tricky climbing. It had taken him an hour to climb up, so I estimated it would be at least that long for us to get down. But we all agreed it was better than trying to stay there. Mahendra led us down the trail in the moonlight, and we arrived in camp a few minutes before 8pm. Marcia was so exhausted that she could only eat one bite of Sonam's pizza, normally a favorite.
I gave a piece of my mind to Kinna and told him he needed to get control of the trip. Although he has been a good guide and organizer and almost excessively helpful, he is not well tuned to maps in this area where he has never traveled before. So effectively the yak men have been leading the trip for the last week, and yak men have no sense of what works for aging Westerners who were not born in these mountains. I have told Kinna repeatedly that above all we must keep the days short enough to be safe and comfortable for Marcia and me despite our slow pace. But today we were forced into a 12-hour day that was too much for both of us, and potentially dangerous.
We have only two and a half days left and no more passes, so we should be okay. But I wanted to make sure Kinna regains control of the trip and that he arranges an easy day for tomorrow. He has agreed.
