Day 23 - July 4 - Detour to Phugtal Gompa

We followed the lead of most travelers to make a one-day excursion to Phugtal monastery, one of the most important in the southern Zanskar mountains. Several hours up a side valley through rugged red rocks along the rushing Tsarap river, Phugtal is almost two days' walk from the nearest road. The site has been in religious use for at least 2500 years.

The monastery was not visible until we crossed a small ridge at a bend in the river. The sight could have then come out of the Lord of the Rings.



Phugtal monastery was built on the side of a cliff, with its main monastic buildings inside a cave formed by an overhanging rock. The cave walls and roof formed walls and ceilings of several monastic buildings, including the dark gongkang chapel of the fierce protectors. Workers were busy rebuilding and expanding the assembly hall. Other chapels were reached by paths through tunnels formed by monastic residences built out over the canyon, which threatened to swallow any building without a sufficient foundation. From bottom to top, a stairway climbed ten stories through narrow, dark holes in the structure.


After several hours in awe, we returned to our camp at the main valley.